Archive for June, 2007
Karen Marie Shelton
Quite simply hair coloring is the science and art of changing the color of the hair.
The natural color of human hair is first and foremost directly tied to hereditary factors. As scientists have proven, hair color is an inherited characteristic.
For anyone, either professional hair colorist, hairdresser, barber or hair consumer to be successful in altering hair color, it is essential that the base hair color and pigmentation is understood. It is also important to understand other factors related to coloring hair including the basic hair texture, porosity and elasticity.
Hair texture refers to the basic degree of coarseness or fineness of the hair.
Friends and DIRT star Courteney Cox, accorind to her celebrity hairdresser Robert Hallowell, prefers to wear her natural medium brown hair (Level 3 or 4) in a rich hue of flat black (Level 1) created by Robert with a Goldwell color product.
How Hair Pigment Is Derived
The cortex of the hair contains the basic coloring matters, minute grains of melanin or pigment.
Melanin has two possible manifestations. Eumelanin, which has an oval or elliptical shape is found in black and brunette hair and is a dark pigment. The higher the concentration of eumelanin, the darker the hair.
Phaeomelanin is a light pigment that is found in blonde and red hair. The higher the concentration of phaeomelanin, the lighter the hair. Unlike eumelanin, phaeomelanin is smaller, partly oval and has a rod shape.
A mixture of the two different pigments can be found at the same time in many people. Melanin an its existence is genetically predetermined. White hair contains no melanin at all and gray hair contains only a few melanin granules. Gray hair melanin is usually spread out throughout the entire head of hair.
Many people’s hair contains a mixture of the two: the more eumelanin there is in the mixture, the darker is the hair. The mixture (and the shade) varies not only from one person to another, but also across one person’s head.
Hair color experts study the theory of color pigment. It is only through understanding hair pigments and correct color formulations that the correct color can be chosen and applied to hair color clients.
Although some scientists believe that the derivation of pigment is probably derived from colo-forming substances in the blood. The color of the hair, light or dark, depends upon the color and amount of the grains of pigment it contains.
Hair color is created by the movement of light rays either as they are absorbed or reflected by artificial pigment added to the hair in the tinting process, or by natural hair pigment.
Note: Actress Pamela Anderson is famous for her white blonde hair which her sometime celeb hairdresser, Ken Paves, explains she “colors at home with a box of haircolor”. Pamela’s white blonde hair would be classified as a Level 10.
Natural hair color is created by the reflection or absorption of light rays by melanin. The size, amount and distribution of melanin determines the ultimate hair color. Great numbers of large melanin molecules distributed throughout the cortext to create different colors. The various combination in the size, amount and distribution of melanin creates all natural hair color.
June 28th, 2007
Have you decided to go back to your natural curly hair? Are you ready to give up using relaxers? Are you seeking information on how to deal with two different hair textures, and different methods to make this transition easier? This article will help you get through this part of your hair journey.
By Janice Johnson
Going from relaxed hair to natural curly hair is a process that involves patience, love and dedication. This is the time you decide you no longer want to relax your hair. At this point, you are “transitioning”.
The Big Chop
During this period, proper care must be taken to care for your hair. It may be frustrating sometimes dealing with the two textures - that’s why some opt for “the big chop”. This is the point where the relaxed hair is completely removed. Depending on how much natural growth you have, this may mean shaving your head or if you have an inch or two of new growth, you can cut the hair to the point of the new growth. This is known as a TWA (teeny weeny afro) - which looks great on most women!
If “the big chop” or TWA are not options you’re willing to forgo, try to embrace your hair during the transition period by practicing the following tips:
Love Your Hair
Take the time and energy to care for your hair with the right styling options. In order to hide the two textures, you may opt for styles that require very little or no daily grooming like cornrows, braids, extensions, straw-sets or twist-outs. But, you must remember that during this transitioning period - LOVE YOUR HAIR!
Avoid Breakage
One of the most important things to do is condition, condition, condition! Also, trim your hair gradually to get rid of the straight ends. This also aids in helping the hair avoid breakage. Another way to avoid breakage is to use a wide tooth comb, conditioning the hair regularly, and by giving your hair a hot-oil deep conditioning treatment. This is essential to restore moisture and balance.
Many women have sworn by this method and have said they have experienced very little breakage or no breakage at all.
Remember when your hairdresser told you to make sure you don’t wait too long for your next relaxer? (6-8 weeks was the recommended time frame). Well, the reason she/he said this was because when you relax the hair, the structure of the hair is now modified. And depending on how straight your relaxed hair is this meant that the hair structure was altered that much more.
When you transition, the point where the two textures meet is known as the “line of demarcation”. This is the weakest point. The curly/coily hair meets the relaxed or straight hair. At this point the structure of the hair is completely different due to the two different textures. This is the point where the hair is susceptible to breakage.
While transitioning, if you are conditioning your hair, comb the hair carefully with the wide tooth comb while the conditioner is still in the hair. Leave the conditioner in the hair for 10 minutes and then rinse out. A great after wash and conditioner is Infusium Leave-In Conditioner. Add to the hair after washing and conditioning with the creamy conditioner. Infusium Leave-In Conditioner is a great product to use after every wash because it rids the hair of tangles.
Consult Your Stylist
Try to consult with a professional stylist to help you through your transitioning period. A visit to the stylist for a professional deep conditioning will also be very beneficial and helpful during the transition period. It’s best to go to a stylist that embraces natural hair. The last thing you need is a stylist who makes you feel like you’ve lost your mind because you’ve decided to go the natural route. You need to surround yourself with people who support your decision. It’s amazing how many stylists frown upon natural hair.
Your stylist will also be able to recommend the best products and methods to use for your hair. Another key point to having good hair (whether transitioning or not), is a healthy diet. So, get healthy! Try to eat right so that your hair will grow quickly and grow thick and healthy. Green leafy vegetables like spinach and broccoli are great at growing long healthy locks.
Transitioning Tip: Try to avoid slicking your hair back because the tension may cause breakage. Your hair is more susceptible to breakage because of the two different textures.
June 27th, 2007
You’ve seen Katie Holmes with her long chestnut locks, as she has worn her hair smoothed and flowing down below her shoulders, and you’ve seen her wearing her hair up in the back with wisps hanging along her sides for a dressy affair.
Well, let me tell you! There’s a new kid in town! The whole place is whispering about our celebrity and her brand new look (June 2007). By the way, have you taken a glimpse of it, yet? There are those who say it resembles Victoria Beckham’s new signature cut, and we are going to talk about that just a little bit.
From what I do understand, those two are buddies, so what would it hurt if Katie takes a page out of Victoria’s chapter and learns for the betterment of herself. I am sure you know who I am talking about, she is the famous British pop singer, song writer and dancer. As if that isn’t enough, she is also a fashion designer. Now, do you remember her? She is a good sort, to run around with and learn the ropes of the trade. Katie isn’t any slouch herself and has been acting for many years now. The mixture seems to be like peanut butter and jelly. Both good for each other.
I for one, am glad to see the bob hairstyle re-make an entrance on the Hollywood scene. I’m tired of seeing all the centered parts and straight or coiled hair about their shoulders. Remember that old songster, Peggy Lee, as she used to sing: “Is that all there is, my friends, then, let’s keep dancing; under the moon.” Sometimes, when I see so many centered parts and long straight hair, I start to hear that song in my head. However, bob’s are different and there are so many different types out there. Just like the unique one that Katie just got. I was delighted to see her go for the gusto and dive right in to the water, with a brand new look. Hey, sometimes, we all need to do the same thing. All you have to do is drink a glass of nerve tonic. There would be other’s who would say bubbly.
Our girl Katie, has a haircut that looks similar, not to say it is the same exact haircut as Victoria Beckhams’s. If you will take a look at Victoria’s hair, you will notice it is cropped close to her head in the back, quite severely; so you can plainly see the outline of her head when you look at her profile. When you see Katie’s haircut, there is some hair to still play with, and her head is not as outlined as Victoria’s and when we look in her back we can see her hair laying upon her neckline. The haircuts are similar but not the same. If you think about it, Katie probably wanted this, realizing that she didn’t want to be a walking clone of her friend Victoria’s hair anyway. Katie Holmes knows she is an individual and she wants to keep it that way.
This is one of the problems we see today in hairstyles. Everyone wants to be an individual, but they turn out looking just like each other, because they are too frightened to make that change. Sometimes, even if a lady doesn’t look good in her hairstyle, fear keeps her from moving on to improvement and individuality. The worse that could happen is that you do not like the haircut and it will always grow again.
Another thing to be considered along these lines, is the different way Katie’s hair lays compared to Victoria’s. Katie has a natural bounce and a little bit of wave, that wants to wing out from her face. Victoria’s hair is straight as an arrow, without any bounce at all. Katie’s hair is also a wee bit longer on the sides, while Victoria’s hair is shorter on the sides, but still long enough to be tucked over her ears. The tops are quite similar as well, as both have the tops angled on their foreheads and moving from the zenith of the whole haircut in itself, into that one big fat angle, that falls over to one side and halfway over their faces. Again, the difference between the two is in the texture and length.
Katie’s has that swing and extra length and Victoria’s hair is full of porosity, straight and shorter. Katie is wearing her hair angled back or swinging into a large c-curl toward her face, with just a few strands in her face, while Victoria wears hers angled straightly down. Vidal Sassoon was the one who originated the bob hairstyle and it’s been in the top 10 of the hit parade ever since.
With the smooth features, that the look of the bob is so famous for, it is important to have your hair wave pattern analyzed before you decide to get that haircut. For example: if you have naturally curly and wavy hair, you automatically know that your hair will never fall into the smooth look that the bob requires. Unless you would like to go to extremes and get your hair professionally straightened. In this case, the maintenance is high and so can be the price. Using your flat iron will help in some respects, but it will just not look the same. When it rains, your hair will not remain straight, but begin to frizz up and move back into your curls. You have to ask yourself if this haircut would be worth the extra effort taken, on your part knowing that you will have to keep your flat iron always ready. You could always give it a try. But, if you discover it is just too much, go back to your hairstylist and tell her to put your hair back into layers; so your hair can be happier doing what it was born to do in the first place, curling. Another option you could consider when you get the bob is to be able to think versatility and not always straightness. Because you have naturally curly hair, once in awhile apply some curl activator on there and scrunch it all up and allow your hair to do it’s thing. In that way, you know you aren’t trying to fool anyone; but enjoying your world of curls as well as being straight too.
Bob’s were basically made for naturally straight hair. This haircut is a blessing from heaven for those who have thin hair, as this haircut is quite illusionary. With the use of a lot of styling products for volume and added thickeners, as when styled properly with the blow dryer, and a medium to large brush, no one would ever know just how thin your hair really is. Always remember, everything is in the haircut.
So, right now you could be asking, “what else would this haircut do for me?” One of the things this cut will do for you, is make your neck look longer and also give the illusion that you have lost a few pounds. Properly cut, a good style will indeed take off a few of those unwanted pounds. That sounds like a good prescription to me. Of course, if you are one of those people who can eat and not gain an ounce, I’m convinced you are from the planet Pluto, not here.
Another thing the bob style can do for you will be the fact of always looking good. Even if you aren’t dressed up, and have to run to the store; guaranteed, you are going to look better than that girl standing in front of you with the long stringy hair that needs to be trimmed.
Like I said, Katie Holmes’ and Victoria Beckham’s styles are similar, but not the same. They are close to the Dutch girl look. If you have a high forehead, you want the Dutch boy style, like that of: Rihanna‘s, make sure your stylist tweaks some bangs for you, slightly above your eyebrows.
This whole look for Katie has made her image more mature and grown up. Like a woman instead of a girl. A Princess of taste. Her mode of dressing has also evolved and is more sophisticated and classy instead of following everyone else’s lead. What looks like is happening, is that Katie is coming into her own identity with style and purpose.
People change when they get married, especially if your hubby happens to be Tom Cruise, and they change even more when children come along. Katie is in a time of discovering more about herself and her life, and all of this is a reflection of how she looks today, and we should applaud her for such a stunning enhancement!
Penny Williams ©Hairfinder.com
June 25th, 2007
Swimming in the summertime can be fun, however chlorine can sometimes give you a gift you never bargained on. Get rid of your green and damaged hair by following a few helpful tips and tricks during your summer vacation.
Avid water souls know that excessive swimming can lead to a green tint in your hair that is more than slightly unsightly. Chlorine found in most pools can bleach your hair, trap in that public swim center odor, cause your follicles to crack and break, and can even tint blonde hair green.
Unless you are trying to sport some sort of punk look during these summer months, chances are you are desperately looking for a way to restore and revitalize your hair. Shampoos on the market such as Ultra Swim claim to get the job done but rarely do.
The first step to fight against chlorine damage is to learn how exactly it happens. Chlorine is able to chemically bond to your hair, which can happen with any hair type or color. Unfortunately for those with light hair, the damage is often much more obvious. The hair disaster actually is caused by the water you are swimming in rather than the chlorine itself. When your hair gets wet, it begins to “hydrolyze”, and creates chemicals that will oxidize with the chlorine and cause the damage. The heavy metals found in swimming pool water such as copper also accelerates the damage process and will easily leave your hair stressed out and traumatized from all that aquatic “fun.”
In short, your wet hair leaves your follicles vulnerable to damage more quickly than it does when it is dry. Some may notice a filmy or coated feeling to their hair after swimming. But don’t worry, there is a solution.
Many swimmers make the unfortunate mistake of shampooing their hair after leaving the pool until it is “squeaky clean.” This is wrong because hair needs to retain a fair amount of its natural moisture in order to stay healthy. Also, repeatedly washing your mane can cause your scalp to get dry and damaged, which can lead to dandruff and flaking issues you don’t want to have to deal with.
So what’s the solution? Stop chlorine damage BEFORE it starts by using a quality leave-in conditioner before jumping in the pool. This will block some of the chemicals from penetrating your hair and will tone down the side effects you would otherwise experience.
Adding baking soda to your regular shampoo can also help discolored hair if the damage is already done. By forming a paste out of these two ingredients, you should leave this on your hair for around 5-10 minutes and then rinse and condition like usual. Others have found success in using a moisturizing shampoo and then rising with 10 oz. Of apple cider. You can also use white vinegar if you already have that at home. Again, follow this up with a good, strong conditioner.
Remember to never go swimming immediately after coloring your hair or applying sunless tanner, as the pool chemicals are sure to mess with these as well.
While damage-control for your hair is a smart thing to be aware of, don’t forget about your skin. A quality sunscreen from a reputable company such as SkinMedica can help to reduce signs of premature aging by guarding your skin from the sun’s harsh rays. Follow up with some after suncare such as Yonka Lait Apres Soleil which can help to soothe the skin and prevent impending sunburns. Lastly, keep your lips chap-free with Yonka’s Color SPF 10 Lip Balm
June 22nd, 2007
The 6th edition of the Hair Brasil - International Beauty, Hair and Esthetics Fair held from April 13th to 16th in the city of São Paulo, reached all expectations in number of visits and contacts.
During the four days of the event, the fair received 61 thousand professional visits, corresponding to a 9% increase over the 2006 edition. Hairdressers, makeup professionals, manicurists, estheticians, entrepreneurs and other professionals of the beauty care area flocked in from Brazil and also from abroad.
From Brazil, the fair received visitors from all the states, especially from São Paulo, Minas Gerais, Rio de Janeiro, Paraná, Rio Grande do Sul, Santa Catarina and Bahia.
Hair Brasil also hosted international visitors from countries namely: Peru, Chile, Bolivia, Argentina, Ecuador, Paraguay, among others, thus confirming its status of event of reference for Latin America.
Visitors were able to appreciate novelties brought by the 530 exhibiting brands as well as participating in the 62 simultaneous events, like the Megashow and the Hair Brasil Workshops, Seminars by Sebrae (Brazilian Support Service for Small Business), Esthetics and Manicurist Congresses, as well as the Hair Brasil Championship.
5.100 professionals from the most diverse areas of the beauty care participated in the events promoted by Hair Brasil 2007, that brought in qualified information on trends, techniques and fashion: a unique opportunity for professional recycling and enhancement.
Jeferson Santos, general director of Hair Brasil, said that exhibitors were satisfied with the fair, that offered good business volume as well as qualified networking. “Once again, Hair Brasil reached the sector’s expectations and reinforced its image as the most important showcase of Latin America for the beauty care market. The fair is an essential tool towards the development of business and networking, thus allowing safer investments of the industry and of the salons”, said Santos.
June 21st, 2007
Ninety percent of hair loss cases in women can be attributed to hereditary thinning of hair. Thinning of hair in such cases starts in an early age (20-30) which can even lead to pattern baldness in women.
However, hair loss in women is not always of that serious nature. Normally, hair loss in women can be reverted.
There are a number of reasons for such sudden but restorable hair loss. It is advisable that women in such cases see a hair restoration physician who is able to evaluate the causes for the hair loss. Young women having sudden hair loss may also need to do a hair analysis test for ascertaining nutritional deficiencies or for ruling out certain causes. The sudden hair loss occurring in women can be categorized as follows:
Drugs that cause hair loss
Telogen effluvium
There are a large number of drugs that cause hair loss leading to a condition which is called telogen effluvium (TE). In this case, most hair in active growth phase is shifted into a resting (telogen), non-growth stage. Hairs that remain in a non growing stage for few months are finally shed in large numbers. Some times this condition can be confused with genetic female hair loss. However, normally TE is characterized by generalized thinning of the hair which does not follow any particular pattern. There is more thinning on top of the scalp than at the sides and back of the scalp. The hairs that are shed are typically telogen hairs which can be recognized by a small bulb of keratin on the root end. Drugs that are known to cause sudden hair loss are the following:
Oral contraceptives
Anti thyroid medication
Blood pressure medication (such as beta-blockers or water pills)
Blood thinning medication such as coumarin, heparin and propanolol
Excessive vitamin A
Cholesterol-lowering drugs
Anti-histamines/ulcer drugs
Anti-convulsant drugs
Anti-thyroid drugs
Non steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs
Arthritis drugs
Tricyclic anti-depressant drugs
Telogen effluvium is not normally a permanent form of hair loss. Eventually, the hair follicles can recover. Recovery and return to normal hair density is very slow and can also take many months after the causative factor is removed.
Anagen Effluvium
Besides the telogen effluvium, there is another condition called as anagen effluvium which can be induced by certain drugs. Drugs that cause this kind of hair loss are cytoxic drugs that are given for cancer therapy. These drugs and other such stop the proliferation of cells which are responsible for hair growth. In contrast to telogen effluvium, anagen effluvium involves the shedding of the anagen hair which can be recognized by a tapered or feathered root end. This condition results in rapid hair loss, sometimes to extent of loosing all the scalp hair. The hair loss can be very extensive, but often reversible when the medication is stopped.
Other than the drugs causing hair loss, there are a number of other factors responsible for sudden hair loss. These include the following:
Diet deficiency - Lack of vitamins or minerals and particularly iron
Crash dieting - Hair follicles in this case do not grow for the lack of nutrients.
Hormones/Pregnancy/Childbirth - Abnormal hormone levels in women especially during pregnancy and child birth are known to result in hair loss due to lack of nutrients, as the embryo or feeding the baby causes a drain on supply
Fever induced alopecia - High body temperature, in response to infectious chronic disease, stresses dividing cells of the hair follicle and they respond with reduced activity and stop growing.
Ultra violet (UV) radiation - Low dose UV radiation may destroy some of the sensitive hair follicle cells and slow down growth activity
Acute blood loss - Blood loss effectively starves the hair follicles of nutrients forcing them into reduced activity
Hyperthyroidism or
Hypothyroidism - Under and over activity of thyroid hormones have a profound affect on hair follicle activity leading to hair loss.
Extreme physical stress such as surgery - Surgery places extreme physical and emotional stress on the individual and can lead to telogen effluvium
Emotional stress - Chronic emotional stress or sudden shock can adversely affects hair follicles although the mechanism by which it works is not known
Severe illness - Severe or chronic illness alters the normal functioning of the human body and this may have an impact on hair follicles.
Excessive washing, drying and perming - All these process cause disruption of hair cuticles at some places resulting in swelling and fraying at those places. It may ultimately lead to hair loss.
But as in most cases hair loss is not permanent. Hair growth can be restored after the factor causing hair loss is removed.
Maria Karla is a free lance writer who contributes articles on hair loss diseases to several medical health journals. Hair care is integral part of your health care.
This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_176010_17.html
June 20th, 2007
Going to Great Lengths®
An Interview with Nikki Ray, Sr. Stylist at Salon AKS
By Michelyn Camen
I come from three generations of hair obsessed women.
They slept on hard pink rollers, went to the “beauty parlor” every Saturday, teased and backcombed, permed and straightened; my mom owned a collection of wiglets, ponytails, wigs and falls that could stock a wig shop.
Maybe that’s why she had Nubest & Co., one of the finest hair salons for children (and insanely expensive back in the day) cut my hair into the notorious “Dorothy Hamill” wedge (supposedly wash and wear, but hideous) –trying to spare me the family’s hair insanity. Instead, it fueled my genetic obsession to “long” for glorious, glamorous hair.
I have good hair, not great hair. I wear it long; at least six inches past my shoulders. It’s a lot of work. My natural hair is not my crowning glory; it does not seductively sway in the breeze (instead, it just looks messy) or cause interesting foreign men to hand me roses. It was not my best asset- that is until I went to Nikki Ray at Salon AKS, who is undoubtedly one of New York’s hair extension magicians. Nikki uses the Great Lengths® system to take hair from lacking to lush. This system is used by hundreds of celebrities and women throughout the world (including Jamie-Lynn Sigler and Jennifer Aniston) who want added volume and length with minimal upkeep. And how do I look now, you may ask? Well, at a recent Beauty News staff meeting, I was recovering from food poisoning; wan and pale. However, all of my colleagues kept telling me that I looked like a goddess. Voila! Three generations of family angst just ended!
NR: Great Lengths is a patented system of attaching hair extensions which not only preserves the state of your hair but helps it grow because the bonds are formulated from a protein compound. Our hair is made of protein and the protein bond which is affixed with a heat process can help stimulate growth of your natural hair.
June 19th, 2007
Trouble washing your child’s hair?
Try to use a mild shampoo in his or her favorite color or scent. Sometimes children are more willing to wash their hair with a fun shampoo, especially if it doesn’t sting their eyes.
Problem with headlice?
Read this Q&A about headlice and how to get rid of them!
If you’re having trouble combing their hair, try to create trust and reassurance by allowing them to comb and brush their own hair on their own terms.
Do not brush your child’s hair 100 strokes before bedtime in the traditional manner. Although combing the hair will promote shine and condition, brushing to this extend will over stimulate the sebaceous glands and make the hair greasy and heavy. Doing a quick brush to get the tangles out should be sufficient. Remember to use a comb on wet hair rather than a brush or you risk creating static electricity, which leads to breakage.
June 18th, 2007
Take a stroll down the hair care aisle of your favorite store. Then try to choose from all those hundreds of shampoos, conditioners and special treatments. It’s enough to make your hair fall out.
How do you know which is the right shampoo and conditioner for you? Here are a few guidelines that will help you face that long, lonely walk down the hair care aisle:
Know your hair and scalp type. Is it normal, dry, oily, color-treated, permed, fine/thinning, curly, gray or silver? There’s a shampoo and conditioner for each type. If you’re not sure, ask your hair stylist for help.
Curly hair usually benefits from shampoos and conditioners that give added moisture to combat dryness and frizz.
If your hair has been colored or highlighted, always use a color-safe shampoo to prevent premature fading.
If you need a dandruff shampoo for your scalp problem, you may have to try several before you find one that works for you. Anti-dandruff contains active agents like Selenium Sulfide or Ketoconazole (used in Nizoral dandruff shampoo) can fade your hair color, so try to select the mildest anti-dandruff formulation that still controls your dandruff.
There are many medicated shampoos and scalp conditioners on the market for scalp problem and conditions like psoriasis, allergic scalp, itchy scalp etc. Ask for a recommendation from your doctor or your hair care professional. And of course, read our articles!
Try selecting two different brands of product, then alternate them for best results (example: a dandruff shampoo and a normal shampoo.)
Go with a brand name you trust. Professional salon products are made by companies that value their reputation for quality products so their claims are usually reliable.
Always read the label before trying a new product.
A pretty bottle and a lovely smell are nice little extras. But the best way to find a shampoo or conditioner for your hair and scalp problem that can deliver real, noticeable benefits is to carefully match it to the unique needs of your hair. Once you know your hair, shopping for hair care products and solving your hair and scalp problem gets a lot easier.
June 15th, 2007
Nothing can lift your looks and your sprit like a new hair color! A sassy new hair color lets you look at yourself in a whole new way. There are many, many ways to add hair coloring:
Hair coloring can add spice and enhance many hair styles. It’s fun and rewarding when it comes out dazzling, yet it can be devastating when it works out wrong. A great hair color should look as natural as possible.
A good hair color can add shine, drama and fun to your hair style. It can make some hair types easier to style. Although the majority of women color their hair to cover gray hair, many women color for the fun of having a new look, and the pizzazz it can add to your hair style.
If you decide to add hair color your hair it would be wise to first educate yourself. You can save yourself some tears and unwanted disastrous results. (Read some of the hair coloring horror stories) Remember, if your hair is in a damaged condition before hair coloring, it may very well become worse afterward. Make sure you have your hair condition in the best possible shape before adding hair coloring. For the best results, stay within two shades of your natural hair color.
Semi-permanent hair color
Want a gentle boost of color with no “roots”? Semi-permanent hair coloring is great for you. Sometimes called glazing, color stains or washes, these can boost hair shine and texture by coating the hair with a non-peroxide hair color that washes out naturally over 4-6 weeks. Semi-permanent hair color can only darken the hair and it will cover gray hair temporarily. These hair color rinses can help tame hair frizzies and actually may look like you have a healthier hair appearance. I strongly recommend that you use semi-permanent hair coloring for as long as it can produce the results you want, before going on to permanent hair color. It is by far the most gentle on your hair, and a low risk way to “try out” a new hair color.
Permanent hair color
Permanent hair coloring breaks down the hair cuticle and deposits pigment into the hair shaft. Unlike semi-permanent hair color, permanent hair color can lighten your hair. It accomplishes this by bleaching hair and depositing color in a one-step process. Permanent hair color can cover gray hair more extensively. Permanent hair color can be damaging to hair, and long-term usage can result in permanent irreversible harm to your hair. With a permanent hair color you can minimize long-term damage by being extra careful with your daily hair care regimen.
Hair highlighting, streaking, weaving and foiling
Highlights can be added to the hair by any of these methods. Any hair can be highlighted and is usually given more depth and texture by this process. You can add lighter, brighter strands of hair overall or just in specific areas. This is a great process for the timid or first time blondes. I should also mention “hair low lights” here. The same processes are used, however, instead of lightening the hair, this is adding darker shades of blondes or warmer browns. Hair coloring has come a long way recently and a talented hair colorist can weave two, sometimes three different natural looking hair colors into your hair creating beautiful effects.
Hair bleaching
Hair bleaching had a big resurgence in popularity after Marilyn Monroe became a cultural icon. Usually this is a two-step process. First the hair is bleached and then a hair toner is applied. This is quite rough on the hair. It is also a time-consuming process. Expect to spend at least an hour in the hair salon every 2-3 weeks for hair color touch-ups. On brunette hair, it is particularly hard to keep up as well as being hard on the hair. If your skin tone is olive or dark it will look very unnatural.
After the process the hair is so fragile that extra care needs to be taken in blow drying or curling with a curling iron. Keeping it short is probably the best way to go, as you can cut off damaged or split ends often.
At home or in the hair salon?
You will get consistently better results leaving hair coloring to professional colorist. A good hair stylist will be able to pick out the hair colors that work best with your skin tones. Application can be tricky also. Your hair porosity will determine how long colors should be left on. Even touching up roots can be tricky. Almost all hair will benefit by using a clarifying shampoo before coloring.
I realize some of you just don’t have the time or money to spend at a hair style salon and will decide to hair color at home. If you do decide to color your at home by yourself with a store bought hair product , remember that the actual hair shade you will achieve will vary from the picture on the box. I would recommend following the directions exactly, and taking the time to do a test to determine if you will get the result you expect before any damage is done.
The perfect hair color for you
Whatever type of hair color you opt for, choosing the proper range of shades—warm or cool—is the key. The right hair color shade will brighten up your hair style . . . and your life.
What is the most basic principle of color theory applied to hair? It’s choosing between warm and cool shades—and with the dizzying variety of hair colors available, choosing can sometimes be confusing. The best way to make pleasing hair color choices is to determine whether natural coloring—hair, eye, and skin tones—is in the warm or cool range of colors. Answer these questions, or better yet, have your best friend give you her opinion, which is likely to be more accurate:
My eyes are:
• Deep brown or black-brown (Cool)
• Golden brown (Warm)
• Gray blue or dark blue (Cool)
• Green, green blue or turquoise (Warm)
• Hazel with gold or brown flecks (Warm)
• Hazel with white, gray or blue flecks (Cool)
My skin is:
• Very dark brown (Cool)
• Brown with pink undertone (Warm)
• Brown with golden undertone (Warm)
• True olive (most Asians and Latinos) (Cool)
• Medium with no color in cheeks (Cool)
• Medium with faint pink cheeks (Cool)
• Medium with golden undertones (Cool)
• Pale with no color in cheeks (Cool)
• Pale with pink undertones (Cool)
• Pale with peach or gold undertones (Warm)
• Freckled (Warm)
• Ruddy (Warm)
• Brown or bronze when I tan (Cool)
• Golden brown, when I tan (Warm)
My hair color is:
• Blue black (Cool)
• Deepest coffee brown (Cool)
• Medium ash brown (Cool)
• Deep brown with gold or red highlights (Warm)
• Medium golden brown (Cool)
• Red (Warm)
• Strawberry blond (Warm)
• Dishwater blond (Cool)
• Golden blond (Cool)
• Salt and pepper (Cool)
• White (Cool)
• Gray with a yellow cast (Warm)
What were your answers
Did you check mostly cools? If so, your natural tones are in the cool spectrum. Mostly warms? Then you’re naturally “warm.”
Cool
Naturally cool people should avoid gold, yellow, red and bronze tones, which have a tendency to make you look sallow and drawn. The best hair color shades, depending on your skin tone, are shiny raven-wing blacks, cool ash browns, and cool blondes in shades ranging from mink to platinum and icy white. You’re fortunate to be able to wear many exciting “unnatural” colors . . . lipstick reds, burgundies, and orchids, for a more daring look.
Warm
Naturally warm people should avoid blue, violet, white and jet-black hair, which will seem to “wash out” your natural high hair color. Depending on your skin tone and your preference, you’ll find that deep chocolate, rich golden browns, auburn, warm gold, red highlights, and golden blond shades enhance your “sunny” look. Hair weaving and hair highlighting are great ways to add warm tones to your hair color—and natural-looking corals, oranges and reds are dazzling on you!
Covering gray hair
Make sure you don’t look incongruent. What do I mean? We age as a unit. If your hair color (or any other feature, for that matter) is out of sync with the aging process, it may look unnatural. When our eyes see a 60-year-old woman with jet black hair, our sensory acuity will begin screaming “what’s wrong with this picture.”
Think of the “comb-over guy.” The guy who is nearly bald, and lets a few strands grow to three feet long and then plasters them over the bald spot. Believe it or not, he goes to the mirror each morning and says, “This works . . . look how young and virile I look.” Don’t be the female version of the comb-over guy!
The bottom line on hair coloring
Go slowly with full head color, and certainly get lots of advice and consultation with a professional before you start. Never, ever, make this decision by yourself. It will almost always be a mistake. This is the time to call on your best friend for advice and counsel.
Fixing a hair color mistake
No single area of the hairstyling business brought me more heartache than to see the horrible results that occurred from attempts to correct hair coloring mistakes. Never, ever, try to fix or adjust hair color by yourself—this is the time for a professional colorist. Even as a hairstylist with over 20 years of experience, I always passed these clients on to a professional colorist. I knew that all I would likely do, was make matters worse.
The earlier you get the professional colorist involved, the better chance they will get you back to normal, with little cost or hassle. The more you attempt on your own, the less likely the hair colorist can help, and if the hair colorist can do it, it will be expensive.
To find a professional colorist, just call any hair salon and ask for a referral. Believe me, you are not alone. Hairs salons get several of these type calls a month. When its time for the appointment with the professional colorist, bring everything you can to the appointment, most importantly the product containers and documentation of the hair coloring product you used. It will help a professional colorist greatly if they know what chemical brew went into your hair color attempts. Fess up and be honest and tell the colorist exactly what steps you took, even if they were really, really dumb.
June 14th, 2007
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