Catwalk flash
By Donna Chapman
Autumn hair’s hot new looks in the spotlight…
Hedonistic hair replaces Hollywood retro as summer’s salon-set look loosens up. Up all night voluptuousness, a hint of perfection unraveling, reflects the strong femininity dominating the autumn fashion scene.
Add condition and product performance and the raw materials are all in place to create gorgeously diffused glamour across a whole spectrum of shapes and styles. “Finally we’re seeing a move away from boho-chic long, tousled, layered hair. There’s a shift towards hairstyles with more structure and shape with a hint of the 40s and even the 50s about them encompassing traditional hairdressing skills such as finger waving, setting and barbering, but with a modern twist,” says London Hairdresser of the Year, Akin Konizi.
Short story
For the first time in ages there’s a swing towards shorter looks. The trend for bobs will continue to gather momentum, but rather than 60s retro they are much more contemporary looking with graduation (longer through the front, shorter at the back), disconnected sections and colour placement with an abstract feel applied to emphasise shape. The Victoria Beckham jaw-length, side-parted and fringe-less blueprint will be a dominant one. She’s not the only celebrity set to spark a trend. “I’m loving short, short hair. Kylie’s crop is fantastic,” comments session scene queen Charlotte Murray. “It’s a daring look, but really soft with an almost Marcel waved waviness which is really clean and chic.” Kylie’s wavy texture is joined by the quintessential sleek geometric Twiggy look of as worn by one of the models of the moment Maria Carla. Layers and length framing the face soften the features and keep hair from looking too androgynous.
Long and lean
Long hair will be more individual and customised with precision side partings adding more structure. Session stylist and celebrity hairdresser Luke Hersheson who works on London Fashion Week shows including Sinha Stanic and Gharani Strok has a great trick for getting your parting in just the right place. “To get your side parting spot use the middle of your eyebrow as a guide.” An organic looking waviness is ultra-wearable and less regimented than before. Grown-up grunge figured heavily at the Giles Deacon show with a mixture of heavily fringed and centre parted looks combined with straight-ish hair with an unkempt finish. Kate Moss literally owns this dishevelled, easy hair look. The effect is best achieved with a hairdryer and brush rather than remorseless use of straightening irons.
Fringe benefits
Session stylist and Creative Director for the Headmasters salon group Zoë Irwin is a fan of fringe theatre this autumn. “The fringe is back and hotter than ever. The hippest ones are soft, but weighty as seen at YSL. There’s a fringe to suit all of us, but if you have a small forehead don’t opt for the block variety. Broken up ones are really forgiving and flattering to most of us - think ’60s Julie Christie. Elfin fringes can enhance features beautifully but work best on petite faces, think the supermodel Maria Carla.” To get an idea of what length to go for try draping the ends of your ponytail over your forehead in a fringe like manner. Current British Hairdresser of the Year Lisa Shepherd also sees fringes as an essential part of hot autumn hair, but she’s advocating the swept over to the side version with a bit of curl on the end as worn by the likes of Nicole Richie and Madonna.
Stick and twist updos and preened ponytails
The messy chignon was much in evidence at the Preen runway show. Knots and twists and backcombing all bring a shabby chic aspect to proceedings and were seen at shows from Aquascutum to Zac Posen. Mousse and fixing sprays are pivotal to achieving the desired levels of texture and lasting support. Teased Victoriana inspired top knots and sculptural beehives make for the most teasing party hair looks.
Hot colour
The rich palette of autumn is set to make a splash but given added spice with shades of black, navy, muted aubergine and garnet red. Techniques such as panelling and flash lit areas create an altogether bolder finish. The love affair with a richer, deeper more golden blonde looks set to continue according to Lisa Shepherd. “Old gold is a perfect blonde to warm you up for the winter months. A blend of shimmering golds and light copper golds, on a very light chestnut base. At the opposite end of the spectrum, brunettes are definitely lightening up with bronze and sepia tones, velvety mole and mink shades much to the fore, while reds come over all jewel intense. At Headmasters salons, www.hmhair.co.uk, Zoë Irwin has spearheaded a collection of fashion colour techniques that includes Heavenly Halo which creates a halo like shine on the surface of the hair using harmonised tint colours for a perfectly angelic look that exudes catwalk cred.
Add comment June 7th, 2007